Sleeves For Sleeveless Dresses
hello friends, today m going to teach you drafting and cutting and stitching of princess cut kurti the measurement is like this length 39 inch shoulder to shoulder width 12 inch shoulder length 6.75 inch chest 36 inch waist length 14 inch waist 30 inch hips length 23 inch
hips 38 inch bottom width 20 inch front neck length 6.5 inch back neck length 5 inch neck width 6 inch we are making cap sleeves, so length of sleeves is 3 inch in this don't take circumference of sleeves we are making princess cut kurti with lining, this is lining cloth, from this designer piece we make centre part and this cloth we sew at the sides
4 panels of sides we make from black cloth and and 2 piece(front and back) from this designer cloth and on lining cloth we do drafting of kurti first fold lining cloth in 4 layers equal to half of (bottom width + 3 inch) i.e 20+3/2=11.5 inch first do simple kurti drafting on this, after that we make princess cut and now from one side take all lengths shoulder length 6.75 inch, waist length 14 inch mark at 14.5 inch, hip length 23 inch mark at 23.5 inch and full length is 39 inch so mark at 39+3=42 inch at top from close side take half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch widthwise i.e 12/2+0.5=6.5 inch at shoulder length mark 6.5 inch and 6 inch, and join these two marks with upper 6.5 inch mark and now mark 1/4 of chest + 2 inch i.e 36/4=9+2=11 inch, mark at 9 inch and 11 inch now at waist length mark 1/4 of waist + 2 inch i.e 30/4=7.5+2=9.5, mark at 7.5 inch and 9.5 inch now join two waist marks with two chest marks in a parallel manner
now come at hip length, mark 1/4 of hips + 1.5 inch i.e 38/4=9.5 + 1.5=11 inch, mark 9.5 and 11.5 inch now join hips marks to waist marks in a curve manner like this and in last make a slant line from outer hip mark nearest to bottom width of kurti now at top mark half of neck width i.e 6/2=3 inch widthwise and make a 0.5 inch slant line till shoulder length after that do curving of front and back sleeves now put inch-tape at top(neck width mark) and mark fitting pleat at 10.5 inch(high bust pleat) now mark a point at front sleeve curve near about centre and also take centre of waist i.e 7.5/2=3.75, mark it now come to hip length, take its centre i.e 9.5/2=4.75 inch, mark it now join all these points and extend this to the bottom width in a straight line or in a little curve manner for flair
neck portion we will make later and cutting is done like this after that, cut this marked line from middle like this and now separate 2 side panels and 1 middle panel of back piece and cut front sleeve cutting after that place middle panels on 4 layer designer cloth and cut alongside it, first cut alongside back piece cutting and then separate one panel form both clothes and do the cutting alongside front panel like this now do cutting of front sleeves now cut the four side panels, first cut alongside back sleeve and then cut alongside now separate the back pieces and adjust the front pieces and do the front piece sleeves cutting
these are our front and back panels of princess cut kurti, we also cut all the linings of front and back pieces from remaining cloth we make cap sleeves this is our lining cloth on this we place main cloth & cut it in lengthwise for cap sleeves making, take length of sleeves + 1 inch(sewing seam) i.e 3+1=4 inch and widthwise take equal to shoulder length i.e 6.75 inch, fold this cloth up to 6/75 inch now form one side mark 4 inch lengthwise and make a straight line, this will be required cloth for cap sleeves from the other side mark 3 inch lengthwise and do curving and also do front sleeve curving(leaf pattern curving)
cutting is done like this, first back sleeve curve cutting and then open it in two layers and do front sleeve cutting after cutting of sleeves, now sew main cloth with lining cloth by break-temporary stitching excluding bottom stitching do this stitching on all the panels and after that i'l proceed further now match right to right of front and side panel do simple straight stitching like this and do this stitching in all the panels, after this i'l proceed further after this simple straight stitching in all panels do press stitching keeping the back extra cloth to outer region for press stitching, stretch both clothes like this and then do stitching on outer cloth (here it is black cloth) these are ready front and back part, and now we make front and back neck and join shoulder which i've taught you already(link in description) after that, we make cap sleeves
first, match wrong of sleeves to right of strip (double folded from open side) & sew it straight for better finishing stitching is done like this after that, fold the strip and do press stitching on it and do this on both strips after that, take strip to right side and sew it straight on sleeves after sewing optional strips with the sleeves now match right to right of sleeves and kurti(front to front) and for better finishing place a 2 inch wide slant strip above sleeves and sew it from centre till end at end of arm make sure that arm stitching come inside the strip and kurti and sew only kurti and strip further and now small cuts on sleeve stitching for better looks and fold strip and on wrong side do press stitching on strip after that double fold strip and do hand stitching
after marking cuts i'l proceed further do press stitching starting from strip covering kurti like this then fold strip by temporary stitching and do hand stitching and after that undo temporary sewing and after that do drafting of fitting line again because while stitching panels our drafting get disturbed and sew the fitting lines, it is up to you whether you want slits on sides or a close princess cut kurti, m making it a close one after stitching till the bottom fold to required length and after doing this i'l upload an image of this this is our princess cut kurti with cap sleeves in next video i'l teach you a new cutting/stitching in a simple way..thank you :)
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